By Dave Faries


For The Curds


Dave Faries

The gleaming white facade hardly seems to fit Culver’s humble Midwestern burger joint menu, but the chain also fancies itself a frozen custard parlor.

Pork tenderloin, cheese curds—the menu leaves no question as to Culver’s birthplace.

The relatively young burger chain started in the heart of cheddar country, home to such delicacies as the mild, squeaky, newly solidified bits of acidified milk. Deep fried, they still yield little but some of the unique texture and gentle flavor that distinguish Wisconsin cheese curds.

In adopting the “cook to order” model, Culver’s also pays homage to roadside diners scattered throughout the Midwest…without the deep seated stains and yellowed Formica. Their version of the pork tenderloin sandw...

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