Drinks: Dalmore 12 Year Single Malt

Once upon a time, Dalmore 12 year old scotch ranked as the best single malt for the price conscious. When the distillery changed its aging process, splitting evenly the spirit’s time in bourbon and sherry casks, Dalmore disappeared from shelves.

The new malt, which arrived in 2008, sacrificed some of its highland heft in favor of an approachable, almost timid dram.

It sends sweet, floral impression to the nose, weighted by something akin to burnt fruitcake and candied orange peel. Work hard enough, and you also pick up on rye, espresso and the subtle sting from the sherry cask.

On the palate D...