Observations all along the line - Kimball & the Southern Panhandle First

Restaurant Review: Nathan Detroit's

A Real Crapshoot

Trout amandine prepared by a skilled chef almost melts in your mouth. So what if gourmands are dismissive of the old-school restaurant classic?

Jean Giono once complained “never with butter, never with almonds—that’s not cookery, that’s cardboard-making.”

But I’ve experienced delicate, mellow and rich brook fish prepared in the despised manner. And when I spotted a twist on Nathan Detroit’s menu, I couldn’t resist.

Nathan Detroit’s is a cavernous, worldly pub and restaurant on the northern edge of Grand Island’s literary row. Named after a character in “Guys and Dolls,” it sits adjacent to an...