Restaurant Review: Nathan Detroit's
A Real Crapshoot
Trout amandine prepared by a skilled chef almost melts in your mouth. So what if gourmands are dismissive of the old-school restaurant classic?
Jean Giono once complained “never with butter, never with almonds—that’s not cookery, that’s cardboard-making.”
But I’ve experienced delicate, mellow and rich brook fish prepared in the despised manner. And when I spotted a twist on Nathan Detroit’s menu, I couldn’t resist.
Nathan Detroit’s is a cavernous, worldly pub and restaurant on the northern edge of Grand Island’s literary row. Named after a character in “Guys and Dolls,...