By Dave Faries

Restaurant Review: Tacos Mexico

An Instinct For The Basics


Dave Faries

Densely flavored beef lurks under the pile of grocery store lettuce and cheese on their tostada, while the street simple tacos wait in the background.

Tacos Mexico presents a dubious face.

A plasticized banner strung outside advertises their breakfast burritos, calling to mind thoughtlessly prepared, Americanized things stuffed with sage sausage and scrambled eggs. And it shares space with one of the half-dozen or so tattoo parlors lined up along Overland Drive.

Walk inside, however, and first impressions crumble into so much dry maize dust.

The little kitchen serves tacos filled with beef, pork and chicken, of course. But the menu also lists cow tongue, chicken neck, intestines and pork skin—secondary cuts that cause many Americans to...

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