Restaurants

I find it a tad bit disconcerting to open a menu and see “onion rings” on the first page, when its cover promised fine Mexican cooking—like buying a ticket to see Killer Mike in concert and discovering Justin Bieber is the opening act.

Other anomalies dot El Torito’s glossy list, as well. But the spot on Scottsbluff’s 27th Street strip is something of an anomaly in itself.

The Panhandle’s “metro area” hosts a number of mom and pop Mexican joints serving as authentic street style tacos, menudo or Milanese as you’re likely to find on this side of the border. The town also su...